I arrived late Saturday night, but did not have any obligations until Monday morning...that meant Sunday was a day of exploration! I woke up by 8am and went downstairs to take advantage of the free breakfast. I was able to choose from 3 different items on the menu. I went with the "full breakfast" which included 2 eggs, 2 pieces of toast, fresh juice, tea, and a piece of sweet bread. It was nothing special, but filled me up and didn't make me sick!
After browsing some maps of the area and reading some recommendations in Lonely Planet and on TripAdvisor, I headed out. I walked around for 4 hours and probably did about a 6-mile loop. Some of the sights I saw included: the Holy Trinity Cathedral, Meles Zenawi's mausoleum, Taka Negest Baata (church), St. Stephen's Church, and the "Red Terror" Martyrs Museum.
As I was wandering between these sites, I saw a lot of other interesting things too. One of the first things I noticed was the dichotomy of the "haves" and the "have-nots". My hotel is very nice by African standards yet right across the street there is a shantytown of poorly built houses with corrugated metal roofs and no running water. I could see people washing their clothes in the dirty water that runs through the area and using whatever grassy patch they could find as their toilet.
As I was wandering between these sites, I saw a lot of other interesting things too. One of the first things I noticed was the dichotomy of the "haves" and the "have-nots". My hotel is very nice by African standards yet right across the street there is a shantytown of poorly built houses with corrugated metal roofs and no running water. I could see people washing their clothes in the dirty water that runs through the area and using whatever grassy patch they could find as their toilet.
While walking around and visiting these sites, I was rarely alone. I was first approached by some young boys (probably around 10-12 years old) by the Holy Trinity Cathedral. The only English they knew was "hello" and "are you fine?" yet they continued to follow me around. It was Sunday after all, so no school for them to be attending. What better fun than follow around a faranji (foreigner)? I didn't mind at first. I was eager to meet new people and interact with the locals. However, 4 hours of being followed by various people, many of whom would not stop begging for money, got a bit tiring. I appreciate the friendliness of Ethiopian people, but I need to get a better radar of who is being genuine and who just wants some money.
One of the many boys who acted as my "tour guide" asked me if I wanted to see a traditional wedding. I hesitated because he was pointing to a closed door and I didn't want to interrupt someone's special day. He was insistent, however, so I reluctantly agreed. In the end, I'm glad that I did. I was able to see a traditional holy wedding reception that takes places after the 3.5 hour ceremony. The floor of this building was covered in colorful paper strips and many young people were dressed in white garments. I later found out that these children are students of the church and sing for the wedding party. I was invited to go up on stage with the wedding party which was rather awkward. The groom was very welcoming though and spoke perfect English since he had lived in Indiana for 4 years. I spent a few minutes chatting, thanked them, and then continued on my way. Throughout the day, I saw 2 other wedding parties; apparently, Sunday is a popular day for marriage.
There were several places along the way where I was not allowed to take photos. Certain memorial sites, like Meles Zenawi's mausoleum, were guarded by men with guns. I asked if I could take a picture, but was told not to do so. Luckily, I asked. At the embassy security briefing 2 days later, I found out that you can actually be arrested for taking pictures of certain governmental sites, like this mausoleum of the former prime minister or the palace of the current prime minister.
It started to rain the second half of my adventure. I had an umbrella with me, but I still got quite wet. A past tourist slogan for Ethiopia bragged of "13 months of sunshine". While this is somewhat true, there is still a rainy season. Fortunately, the rainy season is just about to end. I will get to experience about 8 months of sunshine, but my last month or two will be the beginning of the next rainy season. The temperatures have been moderate in Addis, highs in the low 70s and lows in the high 40s. The evenings are definitely chilly once the sun goes down, but nothing long pants and a lightweight jacket can't handle. Although I will miss having 4 seasons, I look forward to the mild climate. I should mention that it doesn't get extremely hot in Ethiopia, even though it is relatively close to the Equator. This is because of the mountainous terrain and high elevation of most Ethiopian cities. Addis is at 7,546 ft above sea level and Haramaya University will be at 6,716 ft (compare this to Denver which is only 5,280 ft). While there are some areas, like Danakil in the north, that are sweltering, average highs are about 70 year-round.
There were several places along the way where I was not allowed to take photos. Certain memorial sites, like Meles Zenawi's mausoleum, were guarded by men with guns. I asked if I could take a picture, but was told not to do so. Luckily, I asked. At the embassy security briefing 2 days later, I found out that you can actually be arrested for taking pictures of certain governmental sites, like this mausoleum of the former prime minister or the palace of the current prime minister.
It started to rain the second half of my adventure. I had an umbrella with me, but I still got quite wet. A past tourist slogan for Ethiopia bragged of "13 months of sunshine". While this is somewhat true, there is still a rainy season. Fortunately, the rainy season is just about to end. I will get to experience about 8 months of sunshine, but my last month or two will be the beginning of the next rainy season. The temperatures have been moderate in Addis, highs in the low 70s and lows in the high 40s. The evenings are definitely chilly once the sun goes down, but nothing long pants and a lightweight jacket can't handle. Although I will miss having 4 seasons, I look forward to the mild climate. I should mention that it doesn't get extremely hot in Ethiopia, even though it is relatively close to the Equator. This is because of the mountainous terrain and high elevation of most Ethiopian cities. Addis is at 7,546 ft above sea level and Haramaya University will be at 6,716 ft (compare this to Denver which is only 5,280 ft). While there are some areas, like Danakil in the north, that are sweltering, average highs are about 70 year-round.
I took an almost 4-hour nap after wandering around (still recovering from jet lag). When I woke up, I was hungry for dinner. Using Google Maps, I found a nearby area of town that had many restaurant, Churchill Avenue. Since there are several universities nearby, these places are frequented by students and are reasonably priced. I stopped at Romina which was so busy that there weren't any free tables. I was given a spot at an outdoor table with an Ethiopian man who was eating by himself. I tried my first local beer, Georges, which was very light, but good. For my entree, I had quanta firfir (beef jerky in a spicy sauce/stew with injera bread mixed in). The staple of Ethiopian cuisine is injera, a crepe-like bread made from teff flour. Injera batter is allowed to ferment overnight, so the bread itself has lots of little bubbles and a sour-y flavor. Instead of using utensils, injera is used to pick up the stew/curry, also called wot. It is considered taboo to eat with your left hand, so I have been practicing using my right hand. Inevitably, I end with wot or other remnants on myself by the end of the meal. But practice makes perfect, right?